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sadly, this blog has reached its unnatural end.
i wanted to stay, oh yeah, if only for the bullets and tamiru's dancing and the draught beer, but alas, Ato Mohammed at the department of immigration decided he just didn't love me enough. damn him. he was so hot.



go to my new blog (UK)

go to my old blog (China)


go to my photos




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links

journalist andrew heavens has an intelligent and humorous take on ethiopian politics and beauty


the gorgeous tiff writes beautifully about coping with the bizarreness of urumqi, a uighur city in the western chinese desert colonised by han chinese madmen


a budding french-american critical theorist lives it large on the pebble beaches of brighton


vox humana, our correspondent in the USA, is refreshingly cynical


a good round up of ethiopian blogs


and i tagged this chick just because she's cute


please do let me know if you have a good blog and i will add it.




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Saturday, June 04, 2005
imperfections
'Have you been into any of the churches in Addis?'
'No I haven't.'
'They're really nice inside.  Very ornate. Very calm feeling.  You should go.'
'Maybe calm for some people.  But I find that 'calm' disturbing.  It's a calm belonging to someone else.  I feel like an impostor.  I feel like nobody likes me in there.'
'Maybe you'll feel like they don't like you until you start to like religion?'
'It's not a question of liking religion.  It's about the people who follow that religion telling me they don't like me.  Telling me they hate my kind, that homosexuals are evil, corrupt, against God, against religion, against everything Ethiopians stand for.'
'Well, I guess that could be a reason for not feeling comfortable in church...'
'What about you?  How do you reconcile being muslim and being my friend?  Muslims are pretty serious about rejecting gay people.'
'Well, as I see it... I guess, everyone has their imperfections, nobody is perfect but God.  I don't like that fact that muslims class gay people in the same category as thieves - I guess because thieves have the ability to change their behaviour.  Let's say there's a sort of grey area where the rules are not too clear.  And a lot of people would be classed in that grey area.  Put it this way: If God had a will you'd be in it.  Everybody would.  I don't see that God would create you that way and then punish you for it.  He must have created you that way for a reason.'
'Cheers mate.  So you accept me as your friend despite my imperfections.  It's true, though.  Why should your God hate his own creations?  But you know what it's like, it's the people who decide to hate.  You know.  You're black.  You've lived abroad.  You've had your share of prejudice.  I mean, God knows, it's hard enough just being a woman in this bloody world...'  

Posted at 12:35 pm by dors50
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Friday, June 03, 2005
laughing out of court


A nice morning drive past Confusion Square and the Bridge That Floods to the court. I was summoned to the court to get my court date, which of course I haven't been given. I have to say I was expecting something slightly grander than a mouldy office in an abandoned old house down a litter-strewn back lane... met the prosecutor who was a lovely chap. Lulit turned on her charm and he fell for it (and her) bigtime.  He's going to do his best to settle the case out of court.
two charges against me: 
(1) Working without a work permit - a charge for which they have no evidence (prosecutor admitted that)
(2) Being an illegal non-resident foreigner - more complicated.  But easy to sort out with a simple fine.
As for deportation, I don't think it's going to happen.
It's about time I smiled again.

Posted at 11:05 am by dors50
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Wednesday, June 01, 2005
blast from the past
So I'm just walking down the street on a sunny morning dodging beggars and skipping over rubble as usual when I run into a Chinese student of mine from one of my old classes.  He looks very solemn.
'Oh!  Dorla!  Vely goor to see you!'
'Good to see you too, how are you?'
'Oh, I'm okay, but have plobrem, big plobrem, can you herp me?' 
'What's wrong?'  And I'm thinking, christ, what's this poor guy going through, there's always so much shit going down here.
He looks at me gravely and continues, 'Big plobrem.  I need to plactirs my Engrish.  How can I learn good Engrish?'
Aah, I love the Chinese.

Posted at 03:03 pm by dors50
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Tuesday, May 31, 2005
pow!! thwack!!
one of my friends went round and broke john`s teeth on saturday morning.  Yippee!!
(look at me, I`ve turned into the sort of person who celebrates people gettimg their teeth broken...)

Posted at 02:29 pm by dors50
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Sunday, May 29, 2005
luxury
(Oh, I missed the part where I got kicked out of my house, but with all the other things hapening, it didn't really seem that significant, I had a big fight with the methodist minister).
At least for now, I'm living in comfort.  Staying with a Danish friend who works for the UNHCR.  A house with (joy of joys!) satellite TV, a washing machine, a bath, hot water. A maid. A guard.  Not to mention his gorgeous girlfriend (Sudanese ex-refugee) who is always nice to be around... 
Spent yesterday chewing chat (local plant, mild narcotic) with a bunch of people in the house.  Intense conversations. And then out clubbing, dancing, forgetting.  This is the way Saturday nights are supposed to be.  And I didn't get into a single fight. 
But the weekend's nearly over already.  And tomorrow morning, at 9am sharp, guess where I've got to be... 

Posted at 06:43 pm by dors50
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The Bad Men
I don't understand this country.  The more I stay here, the more it confounds me.
What do I mean exactly?  It's hard to put into words, really, but...
I think it's to do with cruelty, hardships, nastiness. 
Bad men.  It's the bad men, they're breeding, they're feeding off each other, and the more of them there are, the more normal they are, and therefore the more accepted they are.  

I can accept the fact that cruelty exists, but I can't condone it. 
I think the basic problem is that I can't condone it, but everyone else here can.

It is an accepted part of Ethiopian life.  It's ingrained.  It's part of the furniture.  It sits in the corner of the room like an old, ugly, unwanted armchair that's been there so long you don't see it any more.
The problem is, I see it.  It's always there, in my peripheral vision, making me feel nauseous, never allowing me to relax. 

I was never the angry sort, the violent sort.  But lately, more and more, I find myself getting into fights. 

For example, on Friday night, when I went to Mirim's house to find her being raped (again).  I disturbed them, and got hit in the face for my efforts.  A crowd gathered outside the room.  I begged someone to call the police.  No-one did.  And Mirim begged me to leave.  I did, but not before I'd hit John back (again). People told me that Mirim is a bad woman, she is that sort of woman, the sort of woman who gets raped, and besides, did anyone here her screaming?

For example, in the bar the other night, when a guy felt up my friend while we were playing pool.  I shouted at him to leave her the hell alone.  Do you know what he replied? 'This is my neighbourhood.  When I'm in my neighbourhood, I can do whatever the hell I want to a woman.'

I simply can't condone it.  It's making me angrier and angrier.  And it's going to get me into trouble. Because I've started hitting back.  But from what everyone here is telling me, it's just the Ethiopian way.  I should just learn to accept it.  But I can't.  I'm desperate to return to a country where it's not okay to rape a woman, beat a woman, treat a woman as though she is your slave.

Oh lord, take me away from the Bad Men.

Posted at 06:32 pm by dors50
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Thursday, May 26, 2005
homeless illegal alien
It's crazy.  They're using their scare tactics well.  I'm happy to go home, I'd love to go home. I feel trapped here now. What I don't want is to go to prison.  The thought terrifies me. 
My house is packed up, as of tomorrow I'm homeles as well as everything else. A homeless illegal alien in the world's poorest country.  Come tomorrow, hey, I may be in jail too.  I thought Mondays couldn't get any worse, but I get the feeling I'm headed for a big one.  These are big things that are happening. 
On a positive note, I had an email today from a guy in Burma who says there are no jobs in his school at the moment, but that he likes my CV so much that he's willing to try and create a job for me.  Burma sounds wonderful.  Anywhere, anywhere...    

Posted at 09:03 pm by dors50
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what a criminal
Just after my last post (that tiny flash of happiness!) I was nabbed by two immigration officials who bundled me into the back of their car and drove me to the Department of Immigration downtown.  Apparently all of my permits were cancelled the day I quit my job, and as it's been 30 days since then, I'm now in Ethiopia illegally.  (Of course all attempts to apply for new permits were blocked by ex-boss who has bribed all the relevant officials, including Ministry of Labour and Dept of Immigration.) Therefore I'll be deported.  They were going to lock me up last night but as luck would have it the guy who deals with detainments had just left his office (it was 5:05pm).  I was allowed to leave, with orders to return this morning at 9am.  This, faithfully, I did.  They took my passport and told me to come back again tomorrow morning at 10am, to give them a chance to talk to their superiors.  They're trying to decide whether to take me to court. Either way I will be thrown out of the country.  That I don't mind.  This country can go to hell.  What I do mind is the fact that I may well have to go to prison.  Pah!  Because I am such a criminal!
Keep chanting mantra:  What doesn't kill you makes you stronger.

Posted at 11:30 am by dors50
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Wednesday, May 25, 2005
that's it. I give up.
I mean, Christ, I've been trying so hard for so long to be negative and then something good has to go and happen.  Only a little thing, but good enough to obliterate all my efforts.  No, no, I haven't managed to get my work permit or anything crazy like that, but...
You know well I couldn't resist going round there again last night, and so I did just that, and she was home, in her pyjamas, all welcoming.  And then of course there's a knock on the door and it's bloody HIM again.  And do you know what he does, the guy I punched in the face?  He apologises.  And leaves.  And I stay the night.
Suddenly there is sunshine, I am working (never thought I would be happy about going to work, but I am), and inexplicably everyone around me is smiling too.  It's amazing what a little nookie can do.  

Posted at 04:17 pm by dors50
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Tuesday, May 24, 2005
and how was YOUR weekend?

I come home weeping, no, bawling – No.  It wasn’t that either.  It stunned me, the extraordinary noise that was coming from me, a kind of high-pitched hiccupping.  But despite my own amazement at the noise, I couldn’t stop it.

I suppose really it was the culmination of everything that’s gone wrong for me.  But mostly it was the knowledge that as I stumbled home to safety at 3am, she was getting raped. 

It’s a situation I don’t really understand, a friend of her brother.  A nasty piece of work.  I don’t really know where to begin.

But I wanted Mirim, and she wanted me.

 

She came into the local bar with John on Friday night.  I had met John before.  He worked in the barber shop in Rwanda Street, I’d chatted to him in the bar a few weeks before, he had asked me to go home with him.  I’d said no.  He had become a little angry, but the others at the bar had laughed and him, and he’d backed off.

Now I was sitting at the bar, and Mirim took the seat next to me, while John sat down on her other side. She was good looking, petite-ish, her hair piled chicly on the top of her head.  I asked her if John was her boyfriend. 

‘No,’ she said, ‘I know him from Nazret, it is my hometown, and it is his.  One day I meet him in Addis, and I say, Oh! I know you!’

She tells me her brother lives in Switzerland.  She has visited him there. She has also lived in Los Angeles.  ‘I like Los Angeles.  I lived in a freak house.  I like freaky people.’  She smiled at me at brushed her leg against mine. 

I smiled back.  She was lovely.

She ordered us a round of drinks.

She studied business management at the University of Addis.  She owns a small computer business.  ‘Very small.  I not living well.  Just survive.  You know?’  Her brother sends her money.

We talked and we talked, and she gave me signals.  Under cover of the loud music, I decided to cut to the chase.

‘So,’ I asked, trying to make my voice sound natural, ‘Do you prefer boyfriends or girlfriends?’

‘I prefer girlfriends,’ she replied, looking at me intently. ‘But sometimes I don’t have a choice.’ She nodded toward John.

Oh, Christ.

The barman suddenly turned the music down low, signalling closing time.  I asked him to turn it up again. ‘I like this song.’  I turned back to Mirim and said quickly, ‘You leave with John, get rid of him, and I’ll meet you on the corner of street number 1.’

She nodded assent. ‘Okay.’

The barman smiled at me.  He knew.

John was getting up to go, touching Mirim’s shoulder. 

‘See you later,’ I said.

Mirim nudged my knee, smiled conspirationally, and they left.

 

The streets were deserted.  I waited on the corner of street #1 for three quarters of an hour, wondering what had happened to her.  Then it started to rain, and, with a sigh, I started for home.

 

But I couldn’t let it go.  I wanted her.  I hated that night, hated the fact that I was alone in my bed.  Eventually, much later, I slept.

 

The next day I decided that I had to contact her.  I didn’t want to go and see John, but I had no choice.  I wanted her phone number.  And so I went down to the barber shop, with a story prepared about wanting to lend her some Swiss rock music. 

John was there, in a garish striped shirt.  He said hello.  I attempted to make small talk, and was about to feed him my story, when he led me out of the shop and across the street. 

‘Where are we going?’

‘Mirim,’ he replied simply.

He banged on a gate, and it was opened by a maid. 

‘Mirim alleuh?’

The maid shrugged, and we were led through the rundown compound to one of the rooms.  John knocked.  No response.

‘Later,’ he said, as we left.  ‘Come back later.’

 

I went out.  I watched the Arsenal vs Man U FA Cup Final at a café.  I went to school and chatted with a few people. Then I went down to the bar.  Presently John arrived.  I nodded to him, and went on chatting to Dumi, my Zimbabwean friend.  John kept trying to catch my attention, gesturing to me, so eventually I went over to him.

‘What’s up?’ I asked.

‘You go to Mirim.  She come.  Two minutes.’

‘What?’

‘Mirim home.  You go Mirim home, take her here.’

‘Okay mate.  I will soon.’  I sat down for a little while.  I didn’t want to appear too keen.  After a few minutes I went around there.

 

Mirim was, indeed, home.  Her light was on, the TV was going, and her door was ajar.  I rapped lightly on her window, and entered.

It was a small room with a double mattress on the floor, a computer, a TV and a small wardrobe.  She was sitting on the mattress, smiling up at me.  She’d had her hair done.  She looked good.

I knelt in front of her and said, ‘Hello, freaky girl.’

She touched my face. ‘Hello.’

‘What’s the news?’ I asked, gesturing toward the TV which was flashing the usual election images of men jumping up and down, chanting, cheering.

‘Is boring,’ she said, pointing a remote at the TV and switching it off.

‘Yeah, boring,’ I agreed.  ‘Come to the bar?’

‘Good,’ she said, getting up.

‘What happened to you last night, by the way?’

‘I had no money left, so no fun.’ 

This explanation made no sense, but I didn’t press her.  If she didn’t want to tell me, she didn’t want to tell me.  She grabbed her jacket and slipped on a pair of sandals, and we left.

 

We joined Dumi at the table and I introduced them to each other.  We ignored John, apart from sending a beer over to him to keep him sweet.  We talked crap.  After an hour or so Dumi said he was going home.  He did look tired.  I told Mirim I was leaving too.  Did she want to come?

Sure.

Your place or mine?

 

We bought some bottles of beer and a packet of cigarettes.  I loved the fact that she smoked – very unusual for an Ethiopian woman.  We went to her place.

 

She put Morcheeba on.  We sat on her bed talking that nervous, meaningless kind of talk that always happens when you know what’s coming next.  Suspense.

And then, abruptly, mid-sentence, I kissed her.  We wrapped  our arms around each other.  God, she felt good.  The release. 

We kissed again, I kissed her neck, I took her top off.  Her breasts were small round, her nipples a very dark livery colour.  Her skin was gorgeously dark, chocolately. It’s true what they say.  Black is beautiful. I kissed those beautiful nipples, stroked that gorgeously smooth skin.......................................  Thank god she wasn’t circumcised...................................

 

Ten minutes later her moans of pleasure suddenly halted.  Her ears pricked up, her body tensed.  And then, some imperceptible sound confirmed her fears.  She had just finished throwing on her clothes when there was a knock at the door.

It was John.  He stomped into the room arrogantly.  I sat perched on the edge of the bed, feeling nervous and irritated.  John said something to Mirim in Ahmaric, and she replied.  There was tension in the air, and anger in their voices.  They argued.  She tried to push him toward  the door, instead he sat down huffily on the floor, refusing to budge. 

‘Excuse me John,’ I said, ‘I think she wants you to leave.’

‘I stay.’

And he stayed.  They argued, he helped himself to a beer.  Mirim was next to me on the bed, her hand on my thigh.  They argued some more. 

I got up and opened the door.

‘John,’ I said, my voice shaking with anger, ‘It’s time for you to go.’

He got up, and tried to close the door.  We struggled, but he was stronger, and he won.  He took the keys, locked the door with them from the inside.  Pocketed the keys.

I lunged at his pocket, tried to grab the keys.  He wasn’t having any of it.

‘Open that fucking door!!!’

‘No.’  He was a man of few words, our John.

‘I’ve got a fucking good lawyer, you know.  He’ll fucking have you.  The police won’t take too kindly to false imprisonment of a firenje, you can be sure of that.  You’re buggered mate.  You’re fucking buggered.’

He began to look a little scared.  He sat down again.  I lunged again at his pocket.  This time I caught him unawares, and managed to extract a set of keys.  Unfortunately, they were the wrong keys.  ‘Alright,’ I said, ‘I keep these keys until you give me the other ones.’  He looked undeterred.  I pocketed his keys.

Then I spotted the Swiss army knife on the floor.  I grabbed it, and flicked open the largest blade.  I pointed it at him. ‘GIVE ME THOSE FUCKING KEYS.’

‘Shit!’ he said.  And it suddenly dawned on me that it was probably not a good idea to take it this far. I closed the blade and he took the knife from me.

 

The stand-off dragged on.  I looked at my watch; it was 2am.  I was drunk.  A lot of bad language had come from my mouth.  I had called him every name under the sun, and a lot more besides.  He argued with Mirim, they started struggling, I grabbed him and pulled him off her.  ‘Don’t you fucking dare treat a woman like that.’  More stand-off.  More arguing. 

‘Don’t worry,’ I said to Mirim at one point. ‘I’ll make sure you’re OK.’

‘Don’t worry about me,’ she said.  ‘I’ll just do what I have to do.’

Finally, I said, ‘I’m going home. Let me out.’

And, miraculously, John opened the door.  They followed me to the gate.  I stepped out onto the street.  I turned to face John one last time.  I looked into his eyes with cold hatred.  Then my hand clenched into a fist, I took aim, and punched him square in the face.

And then I ran.

 

I spend the day indoors, nursing a huge hangover, going over and over the events of last night.  How could I have left her?  And, why is it that Ethiopian men think they own woman?  That’s a rhetorical question, but in fact, there’s a practical answer.  In the countryside, men still buy wives for cattle.  A wealthy farmer might have four or five.  Women are things to be possessed.

And so you have women like Mirim, educated, urban dwelling, employed, young and single.  Just like me.  But because she is Ethiopian, any male friend of the family feels he has the right to run her life, to blackmail her,, to rape her in return for not giving away her secret and shaming her in the eyes of her family.

But it’s not just this that gets me.  It’s the fact that an educated woman like Mirim will apparently just accept this, won’t shout out, will never cry for help, will never speak of it.  This deep resignation.  The whole thing is so ingrained and so very, very horrible.

I feel useless, impotent. I just don’t know how to help.   

Posted at 12:38 pm by dors50
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